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GENOA BREAKS
Genoa is a dizzying mix of the past and the present. An important maritime center for the Roman Empire, Genoa is a city of two faces, looking both inland and towards the sea.
Genoa saw the man who saw the world, Christopher Columbus, grew up. In fact, his house still stands near a section of the medieval walls, much restored. Visiting the place when you’re in Genoa is a huge must-do!
Genoa was one of the largest and wealthiest cities in Renaissance Europe with its thriving seafaring commerce. The place suffered a destructive blow, literally, when Allies bombed it in World War II. However, the city sprung back to life through rebuilding and rapid expansion to become a major Mediterranean port once again.
In fact, if you happen to come across the narrow lanes and dank alleys of Genoa’s portside Old Town, you can stand witness to the golden past and the heydays of the city.
Perhaps the best place to start your exploration of Genoa is at the palazzo-lined Via Gribaldi. One of the most beautiful streets in Italy, Via Gribaldi plays host to clusters of Genoa’s museums, major palaces and art galleries, three of which are grouped together namely the Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Tursi. Other treasures include one of the city’s most beautiful fountains, hidden in the courtyard of Palazzo Podesta at no. 7 and at Palazzo Tursi at no. 9, you can find proudly displayed artifacts of famous Genoans like Christopher Columbus letters’ and Nicolo Paganini’s violin. Via Gribaldi is also the place where many of Genoa’s wealthy families built their palaces in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The city of Genoa has its fair share of historical squares too. The beautiful little square of Piazza San Mateo is the domain of Genoa’s most acclaimed family, the seagoing Dorias, who ruled the city until the end of the 18th century. The church of San Matteo, which was built on the piazza in the 12th century, contains the crypt of Andrea, Doria’s most memorable son while the cloisters lined with centuries-old plaques heralds the family’s numerous accomplishments. Surrounding the church are the Doria palaces, a stunning array of loggias with facades of black-and-white striped marble which denote the homes of honored citizens.
Another historic attraction at Genoa is Piazza Dante. This piazza is bounded on one end by the twin round towers of a town gate called Porta Soprana. In a tidy little park below the gate stands a small house which is said to belong to the father of Christopher Columbus. Whether or not Christopher Columbus lived here still remains a debatable issue. The tiny park also contains the reconstituted 12th century cloisters of Sant’ Andrea.
To truly see Genoa in its entire splendor, visit Circonvallazione a Monte, a scenic corniche that embraces Genoa’s hills and provides dramkatic views over the city and the sea. Castello Belvedere also offers stunning views of the city coupled with refreshing breezes. Castello Belvedere provides the perfect space to take a break from all that sightseeing.
Il Bigo is Genoa’s new landmark, a modernistic, mast-like tower that was built to honor the Columbus quincentennial celebrations in 1992. One can have an eagle’s-eye view of one of Europe’s busiest ports at Il Bigo’s observation platform.
Plan your trip to Genoa in time for its lively festivals. Genoa celebrates the ancient tradition of Regata della Antiche Repubbliche Marinare in June, where the city battles in friendly competition with its ancient maritime rivals, Amalfi, Pisa and Venice. In April, another more contemporary regatta takes place in the city, the Millevel or Thousand Sails where mainsails and spinnakers of nautical enthusiasts around the world carpet Genoa’s bay. The International Ballet Festival highlights the city’s summer season with stellar performances from international companies.
With so many attractions to offer, Genoa is one great place to visit. Unfortunately, the city also has a reputation for being the seediest port city in Italy. While Genoa has made impressive efforts to clean up the legendary drug use that marked a prominent scar in its historic center by replacing shady piazzas with popular restaurants and bars, unsavory characters like thieves and prostitutes still dwell in the back alleys of the city, all day and all night long.
However, if you stick to the major well-lit streets of the city, you will surely find Genoa’s classic and authentic charm.
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